Everyone needs a clock in the workshop because we all know how the time can fly by when you're totally involved in your latest project. What could be more appropriate than a workshop theme for your workshop clock.
Going through my back issues of Wood Magazine I noticed a great looking wall clock in their December 1994 issue. It was just begging to be made and I needed a Christmas gift for my son-in-law Terry, so I made this one for him. It's fairly easy to build, but there are a number of steps - perhaps some of them new to some of us - which can then be added to our personal woodworking bag of tricks.
As is usually the case with most of us, a few liberties were taken from the original plan, to make use of the materials I had on hand. This is not exactly according to the plan, but for a project like this, strict adherance to the plan is not necessary. So here is how I nade this beautiful workshop clock.
The
magazine's plan called for a 8 1/2" diameter clock kit at a
cost of about $28.00, a little pricey for me, so I opted for a
6" diameter clock face from Turncraft Clocks, Inc. in Mound
Minnesota. With the appropriate quartz movement c/w your choice
of hands, the cost was somewhere around $12.00. I believe
Turncraft is associated with Meisel Hardware Specialty, also in
Mound Minessota. (check the Links page for Meisel - you'll find
info on Turncraft Clocks there).
MAKING REVISIONS TO THE PLAN. Because I used a 6" diameter clock face instead of an 8 1/2" face the plan would have to be re-worked. The clock's width was to be 13 7/8" wide X 12 3/4" tall so this piece was cut from the wood I decided to use. To centre the clock face on my backboard I drew a light mark on it 6 15/16" from the sides. Then placing the clock face on the wood with it's hole centred on the line and positioned so that the top of the face was 1/2" down from the top of the board, a mark was made in the wood in the centre of it's centre hole. Removing the clock face, the point of a compass was placed in the wood at the freshly marked clock face centre point, and the "pencil arm" of the compass was opened to the top edge of the board. A circle was lightly marked using this dimension. I didn't need to draw the whole circle - just the top half plus a bit.
Placing
the clock face back in position, I decided the top of the sides
should be at about the 9 o'clock level so I drew a light line
widthwise across the back board with my square. Using my french
curves (see the Making Your Own Plans page for info on french
curves) I drew a pleasing curve joining the curved line which
would be around the clock face to the horizontal line which was
at the 9 o'clock/3 o'clock level. At the extreme ends of the back
board, I used the form of a large jar lid to draw lightly a
circular shape into the soon to be upper corners of my clock
backboard. After studying it well to make sure everything looked
equal, The backboard's shape was cut using my scrollsaw, but a
jig saw would do the job too.
The backboard was finish sanded on it's front and edges. Then using just a small portion of a core box router bit and after testing using a scrap piece of the same wood to get exactly what I wanted, a small concave edge detail was cut into the front edge of the back board. This piece was then set aside.
Using the pattern supplied in Wood Magazine, the appliqued tools were to be cut out next. To facilitate cutting the pattern of the mallet handle, photocopies of this part can be affixed to the oak using a spray adhesive. It was made from 3/4" oak and was cut 1 1/4" wide X 10 3/8" long. Then that piece was turned on edge and cut on a gradual taper down to 3/8" thick towards the one end. Then the basic shape of the handle was cut out according to the pattern (by affixing a photocopy of that view). It's probably best cut on a band saw but I only have a scrollsaw so I had to work slowly and not force it too much, but it worked fine. It was sanded well and all the front edges rounded smooth. Cross cut a 1/2" section from the thin end of your handle which when assembled will appear to be protruding through the mallet.and set the 2 pieces aside.
To make the mallet head, a piece of oak 1" x 3" x about 20" long, was glued & clamped to a piece of 1/2" oak about the same size. This assembly being about 20" long makes it much safer to cut, since you've got to cut the 2 bevelled edges - see picture. Once those bevels are cut you can crosscut 4 more mallet heads from it, for future workshop clocks you may make as gifts. Even if you don't make any more, you won't be risking losing any digits by working with small pieces.
The first step is to rip and plane these glued up boards to 2 3/8" wide. Then bevel-rip the edges at 45 degrees where shown on the pattern. There is also a photo in the article for reference.
It's decision time again. Put your clock face on the back board and position the handle approximately where you think it should go. Ask yourself how tall should your mallet head be? Then crosscut your mallet head from your bevel edged assembly to the length you've decided you want. Mine was 5" tall. Sand all front edges of the mallet head smooth and ease all hard corners, top and bottom as well. Set this piece aside.
To
make the chisel, I used a wooden paint stirrer which I got at a
paint store. Bevel the edges with your belt sander down the sides
and at the end, to resemble a chisel. Crosscut it 4 1/2"
long from the bevelled end. Follow the pattern for the chisel or
just copy one of your own chisels. For the handle, use your
choice of 1/2" thick wood. Cut to shape from the
pattern or again, copy your own chisel. Round off all of the
front edges.
Finish sand all pieces. Crosscut about 3/4" from the blade end and then set these aside.
Position all of the parts onto your backboard and decide where each will go keeping the project picture at hand. Glue and clamp all pieces to your back board. When dry, remove clamps and decide upon the size your engraved plate should be, and exactly where you want it to go. Visit a local trophy shop, and they will cut your brass plate to your specs and engrave it as you specify. My son-in-law's name is Terry, so I had the plate engraved with "Terry's Workshop". It can be attached to the back board with two small brass screws. If you look closely at the brass plate in the photo, you can probably see the inscription.
Incidentaly, all of the staining should be done before gluing the pieces to the backboard. Use carpenter's glue or hot melt glue to attach them, whichever you choose.
Cut a mounting hole at your clock face centre mark for the clock movement. Make it a nice snug fit for the movement, and glue it in place with hot melt glue. When this has set, use just a small dab of hot melt glue to glue your clock face to the back board. Make sure an imaginary line through the 3 and the 9 is parallel to the bottom and top of the back board before permanently affixing in place. When dry, attach the clock hand pieces.
NOTE: When purchasing the clock movement, make sure you buy one with an appropriately long mounting shaft for the hands. This will affect how far out from the clock face the hands will actually be.
This clock will be a welcome addition to any shop - yours or a friend's, and will truly be a fixture in anybody's shop for years to come.
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