More than a Pizza Paddle

"In the Workshop" is a favourite woodworking television show here in Canada. Recently, I saw a project on that show, which I thought would be just perfect for Grampa's Workshop and all our visitors and friends. I'll call it a pizza paddle, but it is really more than that because with this great tool, you can put away those oven mitts for all but the heaviest of dishes. Move or remove pizzas, muffin pans, cake pans, and most other light to medium weight articles in your oven.

John Sillhoats, the host of "In the Workshop" suggested using pine for this project, but he said in fact that any wood - scrap or otherwise, can be used and can be made just about any size, within reason. From some off-cuts, I've already made a bunch as Christmas gifts. So come on with me, and I'll show you how I made this project. For each one you make, you'll need:

- 1 length of 1" x 2" or 3" wood you've got on hand, at least 18" long

- 1 piece of 1/4" plywood or ply veneer about 12" x 13"

- 2 each of 1/4" bolts and 1/4" T-nuts of the appropriate length

I was lucky enough to get a few lengths of cherry which I used for the handle of my projects, and I had some 1/4" oak veneer plywood on hand as well so, that's what I used!

MAKING YOUR PATTERN I wanted the end of the handle to be a bit wider than the middle so you can get a hold of it, and I wanted the other end which attached to the plywood, to be a bit wider for stability, so I drew it accordingly down one side of the handle. I then proceeded to make that cut on my scrollsaw. (you could use a jig saw as well) Just like John instructed, the piece which I had just cut off, is then brought back to the workpiece and becomes the pattern for the other side. When it's cut out, you are thereby assured of symmetry in the shape of your handle.

COMPLETING THE HANDLE But FIRST,,,,, you must make the 1/4" slot, 1 1/4" deep, in the end of the handle which will accept the 1/4" ply veneer end piece. If you are not sure of your ability to do this step safely, you should check with your new pro friends I previously suggested you make. Someone who knows what they're doing can do this step quite safely in about 30 seconds. If you're not sure how to do it safely, don't attempt it. GET HELP FROM SOMEONE WHO CAN DO THIS FOR YOU SAFELY!

With the slot now cut, draw a profile for one side of the handle. As mentioned above, keep the piece you cut off, because that will be your pattern for the other side of the handle. On the other edge of your handle, trace around the cut edge of your offcut. When you cut that line, the handle will be symmetrical.

SANDING JIG

To sand the edges of your handle, you should make a jig to assist you. But this jig will be the easiest you'll ever make. Drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood, just a bit larger than your drum sander. Clamp this to your drill table having inserted the end of your drum sander into the hole in the "auxillary table" you've just made.

Making sure the drum is free to spin, turn on your drill press and ease your handle past the spinning drum. You'll now be able to easily sand your stock.

Sand all edges smooth and roundover all edges of the handle except where it attaches to the plywood and set aside. If you have a router, that's the tool of choice for that step.

MAKING THE LARGE END For the end, on which you will carry your pans from the oven, you will need to cut a piece of 1/4" veneer plywood. The size should be about 12" wide by 13" long. Trace arond a small paint can to make the back edges of your spatula visually pleasing, and cut these corners round with a scroll saw or jig saw.

Using your belt sander, put a very gradual bevel on the front top edge. With a thin edge at the front, you will be able to easily get under your pans to lift them from the oven. Finish sand both sides.

ASSEMBLY Insert the rear edge of the plywood, into the slot in the handle, centering it side to side. With the plywood inserted completely - and centred - drill 2 holes with a brad point bit just a hair wider than the sleeve on the T-nuts you'll be using. Mine required a 5/16" hole through the top side of the slot, through the plywood, and finally through the bottom side.

From the back side of the unit, I inserted a 1/4" T-nut.

Because I was using hardwood, to avoid the possibility of splitting the cherry, I clipped off the attached mounting "nails". I then ground them down to almost flat, but left enough of a burr to catch the wood. See the photo to the left as an example - the T-nut on the left is new, and the one on the right has been clipped and ground down.

Insert the bolt through the hole from the top side, and tighten the bolt - snugly, but not overly tight. You could split the wood.

This easy project can be made with a minimum of tools in an hour or so, and will make a great gift.

FINISHING When finishing this project, I found it best to disassemble the paddle, finish it, and then reassemble the project when dry. I used 3 coats of Danish oil to bring out the grain of the cherry and oak, followed with a bit of paste wax & some elbow grease. The full beauty of the wood finish is not picked up that well in the photograph because when I took the photo, it was cloudy, but I assure you it's there.

Not having worked with cherry before, at first I thought I'd stain it and then lacquer it. But I was threatened with a visit from the "Sawdust Police" if I committed that crime, so I used a hand rubbed oil finish! ;-) The finish of course, can be to your liking. The larger piece at the end of the paddle which goes into the oven, will get nicked and banged up in use. When it gets to be too much of an eyesore, you can easily replace that part, by loosenning the 2 bolts.

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