Space is always at a premium in most home shops, and my shop is no different. If a large fixed table saw could even be afforded, I couldn't have afforded the space for it, so I had to come up with an arrangement which was both affordable and functional. It needed to be sturdy, versatile, workable, and moveable.
An idea was arrived at which has worked well for me, and I thought I'd like to share it with others who feel it might work for them too. In the design stage of this project, all possible eventualities had to be taken into consideration:
The physical size of my table saw - that is, it's outer most dimensions (usually the top)
The possibility of wanting to remove the tablesaw from this housing to use elsewhere
The desired working height - don't forget to take into consideration, the casters (I almost did)
handles for ease of movement
what about the sawdust and how do I catch it?
what's the most convenient and flexible way to get power to it?
what extras do I want to include in my design?
My table saw is a Skill Model 3400. The top is 26 5/8"W x 21"D (to the back of the blade guard holder including the front rail) and 11"H. So that my saw could fit inside the housing, the inside dimensions of that housing would have to be just a bit bigger than the saw itself. Since the sides would be glued and screwed to the inside of the back, when calculating the width of the unit, the thicknesses of the two side pieces, would have to be included in my calculations.
My Calculation for Overall Width - (which will be the width of the back & bottom)
3/4" (left side piece) + 26 5/8" (saw) + 3/4" (right side piece) + 1/8" (wiggle room) = 28 1/4" W (overall width)
The
back would have to be 28 1/4"W. The 1/8" dimension
would be "wiggle room" so I could remove the saw
easily. Also plywood thicknesses can vary.
Mine just happened to be 3/4" right on, but if yours are
not, make sure you use your plywood thicknesses when calculating
your sizes. At the same time as the back is
cut to it's width, I also cut out the bottom.
Since the saw was 21" front to back, the bottom needed to be
21" D plus the 3/4" thickness of the back, so 21
3/4". The bottom would be glued and screwed to the bottom
edge of the back once we figure out the height. To calculate the
height of the back, see the next paragraph.
I'm about 6' tall and I like to work at a height of about 35" so that would have to be the height of my assembly. Whatever height you like to work at, should of course be your main concern at this point. You will need to make your own height calculations accordingly. Remember to include the thickness of the bottom piece (for me it was 3/4") and the height of your casters. I used 2" casters.
The depth of my saw was 21" so this would have to be the width of the plywood cut for the sides. In order to get to my desired 35" height, my sides and back would need to be 32 1/4" in height.
So my back size had been determined: 28 1/4"W x 32 1/4"H, and my sides sizes had been determined: 21"W x 32 1/4"H. Please remember, these are the sizes for me standing at my saw. Your sizes may be different if you have a different saw and if you are taller or shorter than me.
The bottom is glued and screwed flush to the bottom edge of the back and set aside for now.
Before attaching the sides to the back and bottom, you may want to round off the top front corners of the sides, just to get those darn corners out of the way. Use your jigsaw, and while you're at it, you also may want to cut out hand holds, for moving the final assembly around. See the photos above & below.
Take your previously set aside back & bottom assembly, and sit your sides in place. Check to make sure your sides and back are the same height in this dry assembled condition, and make any corrections needed. Glue and screw the sides to the back and bottom, flush to the edges.
The next step is to make the removeable platform to which your saw will be bolted.
But first, calculate the thickness of your plywood PLUS the height of your saw, and most important MINUS an 1/8" ,and mark a line on the insides of your side pieces, that far down from the top. Cut two pieces of any 2 x 4's to a length of 20". Your saw, mounted to its platform, will rest on these. (the saw top should be just above the sides and back - that's why we subtracted that 1/8" mentioned earlier in this paragraph - and adjust if necessary before securing). Screw the 2 x 4 lengths to the insides of the sides of the unit at your mark. Cut the piece for the platform your saw will sit on, from 3/4" plywood, to the inside dimensions of your unit, just above the 2 x 4's. When the platform is just the right size - not sloppy and not unecessarily snug, position it in place. Sit your saw on it and mark the mounting holes on the platform, when the saw is positioned just right - not binding on the sides or back. Take out the saw and board. Drill the mounting holes and then draw a cutting line for the large hole to be cut for the passage of the saw dust, remembering not to get too close to the saw mounting holes you just drilled. Then cut out the large hole with a jigsaw. Bolt the saw to the platform, and insert it in the carcass. Mount a door with hinges to one side of the unit and catch it to the other, with a hook & eye or other type lock. Mount 2" lockable casters to the bottom of the unit with nuts and bolts.
At all supermarkets, there is always a wide variety of cardboard boxes to choose from, for your saw dust catching box. The exact size you need should be available.
Note 1. As you can see, I wired my unit with a switchable electrical box for added safety and convenience. There is a 1" hole drilled in the back of the unit, where the 12' cord with a grounded plug, exits the unit.
Note 2. You may have to cut out a notch from the top of the back of the unit, for the sliding mitre gauge or other bars to pass freely, but that is easy to do after assembly with a jigsaw.
Note 3. I added a supported hinged rear platform later, to catch small cut pieces after they pass the blade and splitter, so they don't fall to the floor. The use of this feature is not always required, but it's nice to have when you do want to use it.
I hope your unit works as well for you as mine has for me, and that it makes your shop a little more flexible. Give your unit a couple of coats of varnish, and you're ready to get to work. E-mail me any questions you may have and let me know how it worked out for you.
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